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KMID : 0604520080340040303
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Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
2008 Volume.34 No. 4 p.303 ~ p.309
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Anti-wrinkle effect of 3-O-cetyl-L-ascorbic acid
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Park Chang-Min
Lee Soon-Young
Joung Min-Seok
Choi Jong-Wan
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Abstract
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Deficiency of collagen regeneration, denaturalization of elastic fibers, and promotion of reactive oxygen species formation are important factors for deterioration of skin function. They induce wrinckle formation and decrease skin elasticity. Vitamin C and its derivatives have been used as cosmetic ingredients for anti-aging effects but their chemical instability has been a major problem. In an attempt to develop a novel anti-aging agent with a improved stability and bioactivity, the anti-wrinkle effect of 3-O-cetyl-L-ascorbic acid (VCCE), a new vitamin C derivative, was investigated in this study. VCCE increased procollagen type-1 synthesis in a dose-dependent manner (149% at 0.002%) in cultured fiboroblasts. Its potent anti-wrinkle effect was confirmed in vivo by analyzing human skin replica by a visiometer and the PRIMOS system. It did not cause any irritation in human patch test. Taken together, our findings suggest that the VCCE has potential benefits applicable to cosmetics for anti-wrinkle effects.
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KEYWORD
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3-O-cetyl-L-ascorbic acid (VCCE), anti-wrinkle, L-ascorbic acid, cosmetic ingredient, procollagen type I
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